NONNA CHERUBINA,

Nonna Cherubina is Italian for "little angelic grandmother," which is quite the ambitious role model for the so-named Warwick restaurant. Yet this image captures its ambiance as well as its offerings, which can be thought of as northern Italian comfort food. Apparently gone is the day when the main reason for presenting that region's cuisine on this side of the Atlantic was to yank the national culinary flag from the hands of southern Italian restaurant proprietors. Nonna Cherubina reveals what we suspected all along: at home and curtains drawn, northerners like a good tomato sauce as much as any Neapolitan. The Bolognese menu begins with salads and crescentinas, a light fried dough with either prosciutto or pecorino tucked inside. We ordered the pecorino-version ($5.50), and the salad with mushrooms and arugula ($5.15), and our host asked about plating both of these between the four of us. We thought that was a grand idea, as was the delicious complimentary minestrone he served us before-the tasty and satisfying salads. Also among the appetizers is spezzatino, a beef and vegetable stew in a tomato and wine sauce. Five of the seven grilled pizzas are meatless, as are four of the pasta dishes. Entrees include penne with mushrooms ($13.50), and peppers and olives ($12.95), and a boneless chicken breast ($14.35), with porcini, shiitake, and portobello mushrooms in a creamy vodka sauce. We came away from our dinner at Nonna Cherubina with that feeling of genuine specialness you'd like to encounter more often when eating out: pleasant surroundings, careful attention paid to the food's preparation, and friendly and attentive service. What more could we ask?

Full review.